Today, parents whose children are slow learners come here for the patti puja (worship blessing the slate, patti, upon which children learn to write). He learned the 64 arts and 14 streams of knowledge in a disciplined and humble manner. "Lord Krishna, " Roopam said, "came here at age 11. Roopam and his family are descendents of Maharishi Sandipani, able to trace their family tree back 2,000 years. Roopam Vyas, a young priest who manages the temple where the icons of Maharishi Sandipani and the trio, Lord Krishna, Balaram and Sudama, are kept, told us that fifty thousand to one hundred thousand people were visiting the place every day during the Mela, while normal daily attendance is in the thousands. This is one of the most popular and significant places in the city, and there was a crush of pilgrims. Here in ancient times Lord Krishna came to study with his brother Balaram and friend Sudama. We got our first chance to explore the holy sites of Ujjain on April 21, 2004, our third day at the Mela, when we went to the Maharishi Sandipani Ashram in the Ankpaat area. The high point of their pilgrimage comes with two visits to the Mahakal Temple, culminating in the unique early morning worship of the Siva Lingam with sacred ash. Another day's exploration takes them to the Gadhkalika Goddess Temple, associated with Kalidas, and then Bhartrihari's Caves, sacred to the Natha Sampradaya tradition. They proceeded on from there to the temple dedicated to the planet Mars, then to the liquor-drinking Deity of the Kal Bhairav temple. For this report, we pick up their narrative as they set about exploring the city, beginning with a visit to the place Lord Krishna was educated as a youth 5,300 years ago. Rajiv and Thomas spent ten days in Ujjain during their coverage of the Kumbha Mela, as recounted in the October, 2004, issue.